Transition: Custom Rear Rack to Factory Rear Rack

I while back I mentioned that I had managed to win (on that giant on-line auction site) an original equipment (Honda) rear rack from an '89 NX125. I contacted the seller to ask if he happened to have the rare (and expensive), but still available, turn signal supports. He did not. The factory rack bolts through the same hole, in the rear of the frame, that the turn signals use. So, I needed to figure out how to use the existing turn signals or acquire (and modify) some other turn signals. I ended up finding a set of Suzuki DRZ400 front turn signals that did not require any modification. This allows me to use the NX's rear turn signals on my Transalp.

So, I got started by removing the custom rear rack:

1. remove the side panels
2. remove the seat
3. remove the turn signals
4. remove the custom rack (most likely permanently)

The first thing that needed modification were the rubber grommets from the rear fender. The turn signals go through these grommets. However, they're too thick to fit inside the factory rack. So, I trimmed them down.

The left side has been trimmed. The right side is the original thickness. So, the grommet is about 3/4 of the total thickness that is used to be. The groove in the middle is where the fender rests when the grommet is installed (the grommet fits in a hole in the rear fender).

These are the two steel spacers that will fit inside the grommet (shown above). They will mimic the steel shaft that protrudes from the original turn signals. They needed to have about 1/8" (.125") removed from their length to properly fit.

This the right side grommet installed in the rear fender with the steel spacer in place. The left side looks exactly the same way (except the picture I took was blurry).

Here the factory rack is in place. Through the mounting hole in the rack you can see the steel spacer. I had to use two thin bladed putty knives to get the rack to slide over the rubber grommets. The putty knives help compress the grommets instead of having the rack push them down (which will eventually cause them to pop out of the rear fender).

Here the rack is in place with the DRZ400 turn signals in place. If you look closely at the horizontal rack surface, you can clearly see that it's been assembled improperly. The right side is higher than the left. I fully expect that the Honda worker responsible for this to have committed hara kiri (seppuku). Kidding. I first thought the rack was twisted (from a fall or something). But no, every bolt hole lined up without force. And, closer inspection revealed the error in assembly (welding). My partially disassembled Transalp can be seen in the background. It's now running and will be re-assembled shortly.

Here's a close up of the right rear turn signal. You can see that the DRZ400 turn signals come with a nice bracket that makes mounting easy. I will swap that Allen head cap screw for a stainless steel version when the rack is sent out for powder coating (this winter). I'll use the lower hole, in the mounting bracket, as a wiring harness guide.

Here's the left side. Just above the tool kit holder you can see that the rack support nicely clears the fender. I can revert to the factory bolts to hold the seat and rack (eliminating the longer Allen head caps screws and spacers made from steel tube).

A view of the left turn signal from above. Again, it's almost as if the DRZ400 turn signal mounting bracket was meant for this application. There is plenty of clearance for the wiring to exit the base and the bracket is tight to the rack. Nice and neat.

Here's the right turn signal from above. With the bracket in this position, there's plenty of muffler clearance and no need to fret about (possibly) melted plastic.

I soldered the wires so that I don't have to worry about mechanical connectors failing.

The joints were sealed with shrink tube. I also used some Honda wiring harness sleeve to protect the wires from dirt/debris/water/etc. There are not three wires there, the "middle" one is a refection in the muffler.

Here the rack is completely installed with the wiring in place.

Another angle of the installed rack. To complete the process, I needed to put the seat back on and install the side panels.

Here's the Honda rack plate that I was using on my custom rack. I used a couple of pieces of 1/2" square tube to bolt the plate to the rack. If you look closely, above the leading edge of the tail light, you'll see that the plate has two clips that snap over the horizontal rack tubing. In conjunction with the forward square tube, the plate won't be able to slide off of the rack. Later I decided to add a spacer between the plate and the square tubing. The spacers are 1/2" diameter nylon with a 1/4" hole. I had to cut them down from 0.5" in length to 0.4". The thickness of the horizontal rack tubing is 0.4". Now the plate doesn't bend/flex under the pressure from the attaching bolts.

Another view of the plate on the rack. It's a little easier to see how the forward square tube is captured in the rack support. This will prevent the plate from sliding off of the rack. I will most likely end up bolting the Givi base plate to the Honda plate so I can use the Givi top case (again). I also plan to have the square tubing powder coated as well.

Change of Heart on the Top Case

As I previously mentioned, I've decided that I don't like the Givi Top Case on the rack I made for the NX. I specifically don't like the amount of weight that the base plate, top case and contents of the top case put on the turn signals. I may rethink this decision if I have the opportunity to modify the rack itself but I'm thinking I'll stick with what I have now; an original equipment rear rack off of an early Honda TransAlp.

Sorry, this is the best picture I could find, on the 'Net, without resorting to running outside to take a picture of the rack now on the NX. So, the laptop, in it's sleeve, is lashed to the rack with ROK Straps and my remaining items go in the Seal Line Shoulder (Messenger) Bag which is waterproof. I like the messenger bag concept because it allows the bag to rest on the rear portion of the seat while I'm riding. And, the bag comes with a waist strap to keep the bag positioned directly behind me. Lastly, the bag's color is orange which contrasts nicely with my hi-viz Olympia Bushwacker jacket. Earlier this week my brother-in-law was unceremoniously punted off his cruiser, while attempting a left turn into his chiropractor's office, by some nineteen year old idiot who wasn't paying attention. So, I'm a little sensitive about being visible right about now. So, far, the combination has worked well. I have some concerns about the jacket's ability to flow air with the bag sitting just behind the small of my back. Hot temperatures aren't too far off and I'd like to stay somewhat cool during my commute in the Dog Days of Summer.

Rear Rack - Completion

There really wasn't much more to do to the rear rack except to bolt it on the bike, put the turn signals back on and remount the seat. I did take the opportunity to ensure that the turn signal wiring was in it's proper location. There are obvious places where Honda created 'space' for the wiring. Each side of the rear fender has special "troughs" that allow the wiring to pass thru (to connect to the main harness) yet keep water and dirt at bay.

Additionally, there is a large 'boot' that covers all of the connections into the main harness. This boot had been moved forward, exposing the connection points. After reconnecting the turn signals, I made sure the boot was in place and that the main harness was secured within it's holding channel (which is welded to the frame).

Here's the Givi (E36?, E43? - I forget) Top Case mounted on the base plate / rack. This is big enough to hold a set of light-weight jumper cables, a dry sack, a bicycle u-lock and cable, my laptop, lunch cooler and spare pair of (waterproof) gloves. That's a pretty good load and was one of the reasons I worked so hard to fabricate the rack in the first place. The case is a Monokey model which means one key is used to open it as well as lock it to the base plate. It's a pretty slick set-up and I'm happy it came with the TransAlp (which was a surprise, I wasn't expecting to be included). That top reflector, on the case, has holes to accept lights.  And, the case has a knock out to allow wiring to pass thru the bottom.  I think Givi may have intended to offer an optional "light package" for top cases like this. Apparently, they discontinued this line of cases before that became reality. I would like the added brake light and am going to see what's involved to make that work.