Basic Maintenance - Cleaning & Lubricating the Chain

The NX is the first bike I've owned that does not have an o-ring (or x-ring) chain. So, the chain is a little more susceptible to becoming less efficient due to debris. If the weather remains dry, the chain will remain in good condition for several weeks. However, if I happen to ride through the rain, it quickly loses its efficiency.

Tools used:

• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive 12mm shallow socket
• 1/4" drive ratchet
• 1/4" drive 8mm deep socket
• 1/4" drive 10mm deep socket
• 1/4" drive 3" extension
• 1/4" drive 6" extension
• Flat head screw driver
• shallow (oil) drain pan
• degreaser (Simple Green - I have also used turpentine)
• source of compressed air
• rags or paper towel

Here's the starting point. I prefer to remove the chain from the NX to lubricate it. It keeps the lube from running all over the swing arm (and making a big mess). Since the chain requires a cleaning, it's coming off of the NX for sure. Strangely, Honda mounted the left passenger footpeg directly in front of one of the fasteners for the chain guard.

So, use the 3/8" ratchet and 12mm socket to remove the footpeg entirely (2 bolts). Remove the chain guard by removing the three 10mm collared bolts with the 1/4" ratchet and the 10mm deep socket. Two of the mounting tabs can be seen on the swing arm (one, just above and to the left of the "P" and the other just above the "K"). The third tab is opposite side of the chain and is accessed from the other side of the NX. I use both 1/4" extensions (3" & 6") to reach across the gap. I tried using a 10mm box end wrench once but was limited by the tight quarters. I found it easier to use a ratchet and socket.

While it is not necessary to remove the front sprocket guard to remove the chain, you will need to remove it to put the chain back on. So, it may as well come off now. This provides access so that you can clean the guard as well as the sprocket (and areas around the sprocket). Also, check the sprocket for wear (fish-hooked teeth). A 1/4" ratchet and 8mm deep socket are used to remove the sprocket guard.

Locate the master link. The master link on the NX used to be marked with a dab of white paint. It has since worn off. Some owners use a dab of fingernail polish to make its location easier to find. It may be a little hard to see but the master link is centered in the picture. Counting the pins, from the top of the image, the master link spans pins #4 & #5. This is not quite the position I like to have the master link in. I rotate the rear wheel (counter-clockwise, in this case) so that the master link is in about the 1 o'clock position. I do this so that when I re-install the chain, the chain will stay on the rear gear without me having to hold it there. I can then install the master link without worrying about holding the chain in place (if you have someone helping you, this is a moot point). Use the flat bladed screwdriver to remove the master link clip. I hold the edge of the blade against the open end of the clip (the open end is pointing downward in the picture). Use the palm of your other hand to hit the end of the screwdriver handle. This should provide enough force to pop the clip off. I choose to work on a (semi) clean piece of cardboard. This ensures that small parts (like the clip) don't disappear and cardboard tends to be easier on the knees (than concrete).

Here's the NX with the chain removed. Clean the rear gear and inspect for wear (again, looking for fish hook shaped teeth). I also clean the swing arm and the 'shark fin' (the white plastic piece below the swing arm). They tend to gather a haze of chain lube which attracts dirt.

Here's the chain soaking in a shallow pan of Simple Green. I use an old toothbrush to remove grime from the side plates. Although, using a "panning for gold" motion removes a lot of the accumulated debris. Don't forget to clean the master link, master link side plate and clip.

Here's the chain after a rinse in water. I was very surprised at how much debris actually washes off. It took several rinses (again using that "panning for gold" motion) before the water, drained from the pan, was clear. The key now is to dry the chain before it can start to surface rust. Allowing it to air dry would be counterproductive. At that point oxidation has begun to occur.

I chose to use my step ladder to hang the chain. Using this method allows me to capture anything that happens to drip off of the chain (water or lube). I have a small air compressor and use it to rapidly dry the chain. It takes several passes before there is no more moisture (in mist form) coming from the chain. At this point, there is still some moisture trapped in the rollers (not good). So, I give the chain a light misting of WD-40. WD-40 (like the name implies, is water dispersing) drives the moisture out from the rollers. I allow a few minutes for the dissipation to occur. Then, I apply the Liquid Wrench chain lube in the same manner. I allow the lube to dry for about an hour. The chain will still look shiny but will be (mostly) dry to the touch. Now, when you install the chain, your hands will stay mostly clean and there won't be any lube running down the swing arm. Reassemble in the opposite order of dis-assembly. When installing the clip on the master link, be sure the closed end of the clip faces in the direction of travel. This way the clip won't be accidentally knocked free if you happen to hit an object while riding. Inventory your tools and make sure you haven't forgotten to re-install any parts. Now is a good time to check the chain tension adjustment.

Basic Maintenance - Oil Change

Yes, this is pretty simple stuff but the NX is a little particular compared to some of the other bikes I own (or have owned).

Tools: 1/4" drive ratchet, 12mm & 10mm sockets, 1/2" drive ratchet, 15/16" (or 24mm) socket, oil drain pan, funnel and paper towel or rags.

As you can see, it's very helpful to remove the engine pan (or skid plate or engine guard) and the shift lever to gain access to the oil drain plug (and oil strainer). The drain plug is located just behind the tip of the shift lever.

Use the 1/4" ratchet with 12mm and 10mm sockets to remove the engine pan. The 12mm bolt is at the leading edge of the pan, where it meets the frame. The 10mm bolts (2) are at the trailing edge of the pan. At some point you may consider replacing the hex bolts with Allen bolts. Allen bolts have a tendency to maintain their internal hex shape even if they come in contact with a rock or a curb. If a hex bolt's head is rounded off, it may take a vice-grip to remove it.

Use the 1/4" ratchet and 10mm socket to remove the pinch bolt from the shift lever. The bolt has to be completely removed from the lever before the lever can slide off the splined shaft. Make note of the location of the tip of the shift lever in relation to a fixed point on the engine. You'll need to put the lever back in the proper location so that you can easily shift gears. The splined shaft allows the lever to be replaced in different orientations.

Here, the pan has been removed and the shift lever as well. There's now plenty of access to the drain plug. Remove the drain plug after placing the drain pan under the engine. Be careful when unscrewing the plug. There's a spring loaded strainer (screen) behind the plug. Chances are that the oil will push the screen out and into the drain pan. You really don't want that to happen because you'll have to go "fishing" for the screen in the old oil. If you're careful, you can use the spring to remove the screen (which is about the size and shape of a thimble). Place the plug, spring and screen on a rag or piece of paper towel. Allow the oil to drain completely (this may take several minutes before it stops dripping). I even raised the kickstand to see if tilting the bike further to the left would speed the process. It did, kind of.

Here's the completed job before re-assembly. Old socks make nice rags. I use Honda GN4 10w-40 oil because I got about 12 quarts of it with the bike. I may switch to synthetic once I've exhausted the supply. Right now, I change the oil every one thousand (1000) miles. That may be excessive but the sump is only one quart and the motor revs pretty high (50 mph = ~6K rpm). The transmission also seems to shift better with fresh oil. Always use an oil that's rated for a wet clutch. Automotive oils contain additives which can cause the clutch to work improperly (that is, slip).

Inspect the screen for debris. If there are metal chips you may have more serious issues to address. Be sure the screen is clear. Replace the screen, spring and plug as an assembly. It can be a little difficult to try to push (against the spring) and get the threads started. Be patient and use an extension (3") with the socket, if necessary. Tighten the plug so that it's good and snug but not overly tight. You don't want to strip those threads. I have to use an offset funnel to fill the sump because the fill hole is very close to the frame. Replace the shift lever and engine pan. Inventory your tools to ensure you didn't forget something. Properly dispose of your drain oil (most auto parts stores recycle used oil - my local Auto Zone still does). Start the engine to be sure everything is OK. Other maintenance things to consider while changing the oil: clean the air filter, clean & lubricate the chain, check tire pressures and/or lubricate frame pivots.