Oil Works

by NXChip

I ran to the auto shop and grabbed some 10W-40. The big nut to release the oil was a pain to get loose. I took it down to the local motorcycle shop and they loosened it up until I could get home and release it fully. The oil release nut:

I already knew the oil was going to be black as night as even the repair shop has some trouble getting it loosened. I got home and WOW. I do not think I have seen anything darker than that oil. This baby has been needing it for awhile. Put in the fresh oil and some carb cleaner in the fuel tank for added measure.
 

The dipstick and the used oil:

After turning the bike on, I immediately noticed a better idle and more responsive acceleration. Sweet. I think my next project is going to be these brake pads/cables, They are not as strong as i want them to be and it seems like I have to use both brakes to stop at low speeds.

Editor's Notes: I believe the oil drain plug hex is 18mm or 19mm. It should not be on so tight that it requires a 1/2" drive ratchet or breaker bar to remove. The plug seals via an o-ring (not by being on super tight). Check the torque spec in the shop manual (see the Resources page) you don't want to strip the hex and have to buy a new drain plug. Also, I find that removing the gear shift lever and skid plate (engine guard) make this job much easier. Additionally, there is no filter, just a screen that's right behind the drain plug. Make sure the screen is clean before replacing it and the plug.